Çırağan Palace Kempinski (Istanbul, Turkey)

There are many palaces in Istanbul but you can stay at what was a former royal residence – and that would be at Çırağan Palace Kempinski. This stunning 5-star hotel is a grandiose property on the European side of the Bosphorus was a residence for sultans. The regal feeling is most pronounced in the Palace suites, whose vaulted ceilings, elegant antiques, and textiles evoke the opulence of the Ottoman Era.

Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski

Initially Çırağan Palace was constructed by a 17th-century sultan as a present for his daughter, this imperial palace from the Ottoman era has had a multifaceted history. Prior to its conversion into a hotel, it served various purposes including as a royal court, a venue for parliamentary gatherings, a site for beauty pageants, and even as a soccer field for the Beşiktaş team. It emerged onto Istanbul’s hospitality scene in the 1990s, it recently underwent a comprehensive renovation overseen by architect Mustafa Toner and Ottoman art specialist Serdar Gülgün. Additional restoration projects are underway under the guidance of general manager Ralph Radtke. Situated prominently along the Bosphorus, the Çırağan holds a significant place in the hearts of Istanbul residents, often regarded as an integral part of the city’s landscape.

I’ve checked out the Royal Ottoman Suite and I’m at a loss of words how gorgeous, chic and vast the suite is. The 156 m² (or 1679 ft²) suite featured with a large dining room that can easily host 6 guests, a kitchenette, ; two luxurious bedrooms both outfitted four-poster beds, many adorned with tulip-patterned headboards reminiscent of traditional motifs from the era, alongside plush red velvet armchairs. The marble bathroom evoked the ambiance of a hammam and was stocked with specially crafted products from Acqua di Parma. The best part was walking out to the balconies looking out to the sweeping Bosphorus vista.


Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
Master bedroom at the Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
Guest bedroom of the Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
Some of the rooms within the Royal Ottoman Suite

Pistachio baklava demonstration
Making baklava at the pastry kitchen of the Çırağan Palace Kempinski - layering tissue thin phyllo dough to create the base of the baklava
Making baklava at the pastry kitchen of the Çırağan Palace Kempinski - filling the baklava at the halfway point with crushed pistachios

We were privileged to witness a demonstration led by one of the pastry chefs at Çırağan Palace Kempinski, showcasing the meticulous process behind crafting the renowned pistachio baklava. Although the most laborious step of hand-rolling the phyllo dough had been completed beforehand, the chef skillfully assembled the delicate layers. Each wispy sheet was meticulously coated with melted butter, generously sprinkled with vibrant green crushed pistachios, and carefully stacked with additional layers of phyllo. The confection was then baked until achieving a lustrous, golden-brown hue. While still warm, a hot sugar syrup was delicately poured over the baklava, allowing it to gradually cool and solidify into a crispy pastry. He quickly cut them into small even cubes and let us try them. The two-bite pastry was magnificent and indulgent.
Pan of pistachio baklava for tasting at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
Pistachio baklava for tasting at Çırağan Palace Kempinski

Dinner at Akdeniz by Esra Muslu
Dining room area

After the lovely baklava demonstration and snacking, we walked to our dinner reservation Akdeniz by Esra Muslu. This Mediterranean restaurant offers delicious and exquisite food combined with the elegant interiors of hotel. Esra Musla is one of the most successful female chefs in Turkey and has also brought Turkish flavors to London where she has the highly regarded restaurant Zahter.

Fresh baked Turkish pita bread and sourdough bread
Citrus Garden (non-alcoholic in Old Fashioned glass) and Egean Spritz
Fresh baked Turkish style pita bread and our drinks

The fresh baked pita bread was sublime. Served warm and it’s fluffy textured that it’s wonderous with the fruity Turkish extra virgin olive oil. Our drinks of Citrus Garden (non-alcoholic) and Egean Spritz were both refreshing and beautiful.

Fried calamari, chilies, spring onions, smoked paprika aioli
Wood oven roasted jumbo prawns with garlic butter
Grilled butterflied sea bass (800 grams), garlic, lemon, prawn butter

Our seafood and fish dishes of fried calamari, wood oven roasted jumbo prawn with garlic butter and grilled butterflied sea bass were incredibly delicious and we can taste the freshness of the seafood. Each dish were perfectly cooked and well seasoned.

Mediterranean Garden Crudite with jalapeno cream, dehydrated black olives

The Mediterranean garden crudité exemplifying the exceptional quality of locally sourced produce. Resembling a lush garden, the assortment of crisp, refreshing vegetables showcased the vibrant flavors of the region. The item that looks like soil is actually dehydrated black olives which is a playful take on the idea of eating a small garden in a bowl.

Turkish tea with chocolate hazelmut meringue cookies
Walnut "taş kadayif" with clotted cream, pistachio
Tahini ice cream, sesame brittle

Despite feeling quite full, we couldn’t resist indulging in dessert. Our trio of sweet delights included the traditional “Gaziantep baklava” paired with “zahter” clotted cream and walnut, walnut “taş kadayif” served with clotted cream, and pistachio and tahini ice cream accompanied by sesame brittle. While each treat was delectable in its own right, the pistachio and tahini ice cream stood out as my favorite, surprisingly offering a lighter option for my palate.

Our stay at Çırağan Palace Kempinski was truly exceptional. The suite seamlessly blended historical antiques with contemporary elegance, offering a captivating ambiance. The breathtaking views of the Bosphorus from every room in the suite left us in awe. Dining at Akdeniz by Esra Muslu was a delightful experience; the restaurant’s exquisite décor echoed the grandeur of Çırağan Palace, complemented by absolutely delicious cuisine. Whether you have the opportunity to stay at Çırağan Palace Kempinski or simply enjoy a meal there, it comes highly recommended for an unforgettable experience, enhanced by the stunning vistas of the Bosphorus.

  • Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Bosphorous side of Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • View of the Bosphorous from Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • The Bosphorous and Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • The Gazebo at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • The Gazebo at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • The Gazebo at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • View from the Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • View from Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Guest bedroom of the Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • View of the Bosphorous from the guest bedroom of the Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Turkish bath in the Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Acqua di Parma toiletries at the Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Master bedroom at the Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Master bedroom at the Royal Ottoman Suite at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Making baklava at the pastry kitchen of the Çırağan Palace Kempinski - layering tissue thin phyllo dough to create the base of the baklava
  • Making baklava at the pastry kitchen of the Çırağan Palace Kempinski - filling the baklava at the halfway point with crushed pistachios
  • Making baklava at the pastry kitchen of the Çırağan Palace Kempinski - layering sheets of phyllo dough to create the top half of the baklava
  • Making baklava at the pastry kitchen of the Çırağan Palace Kempinski - layering sheets of phyllo dough to create the top half of the baklava
  • Making baklava at the pastry kitchen of the Çırağan Palace Kempinski - flicking melted butter onto the phyllo dough layers
  • Making baklava at the pastry kitchen of the Çırağan Palace Kempinski - layer perfectly rolled out phyllo dough to complete the final layers of the baklava pastry
  • Pan of pistachio baklava for tasting at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Pistachio baklava for tasting at Çırağan Palace Kempinski
  • Dining room area
  • Dining room area
  • Pouring of basil infused Turkish olive oil
  • Pouring of Turkish extra virgin olive oil
  • Fresh baked Turkish pita bread and sourdough bread
  • Fried calamari, chilies, spring onions, smoked paprika aioli
  • Wood oven roasted baby potatoes with chimichurri sauce
  • Wood oven roasted jumbo prawns with garlic butter
  • Marinated baby lettuce and zucchini salad, cumin yoghurt and green pistachio powder
  • Roasted beets marinated with orange juice and balsamic, dukkah spices
  • Baby octopus salad, samphire, grapefruit, lemon juice
  • Fluffy Martini - Gin, raspberry syrup, lemon juice, Martini Bianco, egg white
  • Citrus Garden (non-alcoholic in Old Fashioned glass) and Egean Spritz
  • Sliced lamb loin with smoked pepper sauce, horseradish zest
  • Mediterranean Garden Crudite with jalapeno cream, dehydrated black olives
  • Grilled butterflied sea bass (800 grams), garlic, lemon, prawn butter
  • Brushing on prawn butter with sprigs of herbs
  • Cups of Turkish tea
  • Turkish tea with chocolate hazelnut meringue cookies
  • Tahini ice cream, sesame brittle
  • Walnut "taş kadayif" with clotted cream, pistachio
  • Traditional "Gaziantep baklava" with "zahter" clotted cream and walnut

Information:
Çırağan Palace Kempinski

Official Website
Yıldız, Çırağan Cd. No:32, 34349 Beşiktaş/İstanbul, Türkiye
Phone: +90 212 326 46 46

Tina

I shoot, eat, and drink. My full time job is a hospital administrator. Moonlighting as a freelance photographer and food and travel writer.