I’ve finally made it to Athens, Greece. This city was one of my planned travel destinations (I was supposed to go there in March 2020) just before COVID-19 shut down the world and turned everything upside down.
Athens is as cool as I expected it to be. It’s modern and cosmopolitan, but it proudly showcases its rich history, with ancient ruins displayed practically all over the city. The locals are friendly, and the food is delicious, thanks to the abundance of fresh vegetables, olives (they make fantastic olive oil), grapes (for various wines and spirits), excellent dairy (their yogurt is incredible), and a love for lamb. For the pescatarians, you’re covered since the Mediterranean Sea is right there.
I am in awe of Athens’ ancient architecture, especially considering the methods used to construct these magnificent structures. It’s astounding to think that only wooden cranes, levers, pulleys, and the sheer manpower of humans and animals were used to push, pull, and lift massive blocks of pure marble. Hand tools, without the aid of modern technology such as lasers, pneumatic or power tools, and bulldozers, were employed to create these imposing yet beautiful buildings and temples.
Going back to food, one of my lovely dinners in Athens was at Vassilenas with two guests. This upscale Greek wine restaurant, with a history spanning over 100 years, began as a humble fish tavern in Piraeus. It gained cult status among Greece’s leading intelligentsia and the world’s glitterati for its 18-course set menu of small but delectable dishes. In recent years, Vassilenas has moved to its current location and embraced a new conceptual direction, but it remains true to the authentic spirit of its dishes. Its modern, beautifully lit interior mirrors the unique facade of the nearby Hilton, an iconic 1960s building. Excellent wine is a strong point at this establishment, as is the quality of the ingredients and the creative preparation of the dishes. There is also an à la carte menu, which we opted for.
We started our meal with a grilled eel salad with creamy baby potatoes, creamy avocado, Jerusalem artichokes, lettuce, beans and fermented Cretan cucumber which was interesting. I never thought I would have a slightly smoky eel in salad but this combination works even though it sounds like a lot of ingredients are in that bowl, everything has delicate flavors so it gently enhances the eel and appreciated salty, nutty punch from the San Michali PDO. The salad paired well with the glass of Plano Malagousia by Wine Art Estate wine that we had which was has notes of peaches and summer fruits, a refreshing acidity and is medium bodied.
The other dishes were a ridiculously tender grilled squid with creamy split pea puree with Pollock-inspired splatters of subtly briny cuttlefish ink. The Amvrakikos grilled prawns with lime gremolata, raisin, and curcuma was delicious and I didn’t expect the pairing of raisins and prawns to work but it does add a certain earthy sweetness that enhances the prawn.
Hünkârbeğendi tuna with eggplant, herb sauce, and pine nuts was a unique dish rooted in Turkish Ottoman cuisine. Hünkârbeğendi is traditionally a grilled eggplant and meat dish in Ottoman cuisine. The eggplant is cooked until the skin is charred, giving it a smoky flavor. The tuna was firm, almost steak-like in texture.
The lamb with smoked eggplant, bulgur, harissa, chili paste, and raisin sauce was also delicious. The lamb meat was tender and juicy, and the combination of spicy and sweet sauces worked harmoniously together.
Despite being quite full, we couldn’t resist having dessert and chose the lightest option: mixed berries, streusel, yogurt ice cream, and whipped cream. It was simple yet perfect. The ripe, sweet, and tart raspberries, blackberries, and blueberries provided everything you want in a bite. The crunch of the streusel, combined with the cool, creamy, tangy ice cream made for a delightful ending to the meal, perfectly complemented by a cup of espresso.
Information:
Vassilenas
Official Website
Vrasida 13
Athina 115 28, Greece
Google Maps
