This is a continuation from my Parisian vacation that took place in late May 2010.
Menu on the window
Monsieur Jacques Genin, how I have read so many good things about you. I have read you have ruined people after they ate your made-to-order millefeuilles and your exquisite caramels. Oh, the temptation…and I cannot resist delectable sweets. I made a pre-dinner (yet to be reviewed) stop during the late afternoon after extensive shopping with HC.
When you go to any French brasserie in the world, whether it’s in New York City or Paris, the dish that one would always find on their menu would be steak frites. Scouring through Paris food guides like Clotilde’s Edible Adventures in Paris and Paris Chowhound, I ended up reserving a table at Le Bis du Severo.
Le Bis du Severo
Le Bis du Severo is an annex to Severo, both restaurants are owned by a former butcher from Nivernaises who is passionate about his meat. The interior is sort of retro-modern with the black and white checkered tile floor, burgundy red banquettes, and a small zinc bar up at the front. Continue reading “Beef-centric Dinner at Le Bis du Severo” »
When you read books (like David Lebovitz’s memoir on his experiences in Paris) or talk to the French about where they shop for food, namely their daily baguette, they say stick within one’s arrondissment.
Taking that idea, I found out that HC and I were staying very close to Arnaud Delmontel and it was our quick breakfast destination for two days straight. What makes Demontel notable was the fact that they won 1st place for their baguette (La meilleure baguette de Paris) in 1997.
The day I went to La Maison du Chocolat‘s factory in Nanterre, I thought I was Charlie from Dahl’s “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.” The obvious differences were that I am an adult woman and I will not get a lifetime supply of chocolate (sadly). I would be, however, be bestowed by the presence of La Maison du Chocolat’s Creative Director, Gilles Marchal for pretty much the entire day.
Think of it as a fashion equivalent of meeting Chanel’s current head designer/creative director, Karl Lagerfield. Both design their products for their luxury brand, collaborate with the heads of their individual departments (in fashion: accessories, clothes, shoes, etc., collaborate to carry out the company’s vision), and they do create seasonal lines.
Pristine factory
Getting up bright and early, I waited at my hotel lobby for Gilles, surfing the web getting posted with what’s going on beyond Paris with my iPhone. When it’s about 6:30, a Frenchman dressed in a cropped trench coat, white button down, and jeans, walked in to speak to the concierge looking for me. I got up and we made our formal introductions. He struck me as a calm, very friendly and laid back person.
Getting into his car, starting our car ride out to LMDC’s factory in Nanterre, driving through the then-quiet streets of Paris (a rare sight to see) passing through the Manhattan-looking La Défense and soon enough, we’re right in front of the factory.
In NYC, I have my fair share of lavish dining: Eleven Madison Park, the lunch tasting menu at The Modern Dining Room, Jean Georges, and Marea. All were very good to excellent experiences but frankly, I’m getting bored with NYC fine dining. The restaurants that I’ve went to over the span of a few years pretty much kept the menu almost the same except configuring the flavors according to season. In other words, I’m a jaded New Yorker and the fine dining scene here is getting monotonous.
I’ve asked the good people of France Chowhound what three-star Michelin restaurant in Paris that serves a great lunch? I’ve made contact with a few friendly people who are familiar with the fine dining scene in Europe like Julien and Food Snob (via France Chowhound) and asked for input since I’m going to a city where there are many three-star Michelin restaurants than NYC. After much contemplation, I picked up the phone and called Ledoyen for a reservation.
Ledoyen
Walking off from the posh, busy boulevard off of Champs Elysses into Avenue Dutuit, HC and I felt like were slowly transported off to an isolated, peaceful place. First we encountered their small stretch of rose gardens that surround the restaurant on the side. When we walked up to the entrance, we’re welcomed by the doorman and welcomed again by the hostess.
When we arrived, it seems a bit too desolate that I almost thought we’re in the wrong restaurant. Admittedly, our dinner reservation is considered early for Parisians, as it was about 7:45 PM by the time we arrived but we went in and went up the hostess station and be seated.
Interiors and their napkin
The dark, wooden interior, a small bar to the left and the rest of the dining room were filled with tables that were elbow-to-elbow, barely allowing more than one person walking from the kitchen to the front of the house. Legs of ham, strings of espelette peppers (also known as piment d’Espelette in French) and heads of garlic were hanging from the ceiling, this looks like a carnivore’s dream.
Nudged in between two two-tops occupied by Asian couples, one Japanese and the other were Chinese-Americans, we’re slightly surprised how there’s not that many French people were present. Possibly because of the tanking Euro? I think so.
Chalkboard menu
Whilst reading down the chalkboard menu, we’ve noticed from one of our neighbor’s table was a basket full of gorgeous looking charcuterie. Sighing and regretting at the fact that we’re not starving enough to consume those sausages and more, we inquired each other to gauge how hungry we really are before we overdo it. (Doggy bagging food is not a typical thing in Paris.)
When my best friend HC and I were waiting at Newark for our flight out to Paris, we had the sudden interruption before flight that all the passengers in our flight are delayed there for the an additional three hours (on top of the 7.5 hour flight). Supposedly, there was a concern about the superficial dents on a portion of the plane’s belly that they had to get it repaired, tested, fill out paperwork and have approval from the control towers to get the green light to fly out of here. All of this crap takes three hours?
Frankly, I could care less about the plane. I haven’t eaten since noon when I had lunch at HC’s house and I’m getting cranky. After an hour after liftoff, the airline served us this. [Points down]
This is food…?
As you and I know, this doesn’t look like food. It looks questionably inedible. But as I paraphrase HC, this is for the sake of survival. I sucked up my food snobbish ways and tucked in, for better or worse. As long as I’m ok and have enough energy to get off the plane, haul my bags over to the center of Paris, I’ll deal with it.
As almost every person’s dream is to visit to Paris, France and I’ve finally went there last week. It’s almost everything I dreamed of: amazing food, friendly Parisians (99% of the time), and the beautiful, Old World charm from its buildings.
I planned this vacation seriously about three months ago, asking a few people I know personally, scoured through guide books, and made new connections along the way as I asked people around in the Internet (Thank you, France Chowhound who was the biggest help on food suggestions.)
Over time, my final restaurant itinerary is based on a mix of low to fine dining and the cuisines are a wide range of French cooking (from bistro to fine, modern French) and one Spanish restaurant, getting a little bit of everything that Paris has to offer.
I know it’s been a couple of weeks since I’ve updated my blog. I know, I didn’t mean to keep all of you hanging but I’ve been busy.
First of all, in case you haven’t looked (or you don’t subscribe to my Google Feed/Feedburner over a month ago), I’ve made an announcement over a month ago that: 1) I got accepted and going to graduate school! (I’m studying Masters of Public Health) and 2) I’m going to Paris, France for vacation toward the end of May!
I’ve been AWOL, at least with my blog (I’m sort of active on my Twitter), because of planning my five-night vacation to Paris. It’ll be my first time there and I hope the Icelandic volcano won’t screw up my vacation. When I do get to Paris, all I know I have to be prepared to eat and walk a lot. Gorge on a ton of cheese, macarons and all other wonderful, carb-y, buttery French pastries and bread! Sweet jeebus, I should start dieting by the thought of that…
on his experiences in Paris) or talk to the French about where they shop for food, namely their daily baguette, they say stick within one’s arrondissment. 
